A Sardinian Negroni at Villaggio Baia dei Pini (Budoni, Sardinia, Italy)

Let’s start with a drink.

Not because this was some cocktail-fuelled escapade—it wasn’t. It was a beach holiday, standard all-inclusive, just a week to unwind. But the moment that really stood out? It came in a glass at Bar Centrale.

The bartender—clearly someone who cared—served up the Sardinian twist on a Negroni I requested. Classic gin and red vermouth, but instead of Campari, I asked for Amaro Bomba Carta, a regional amaro with some serious personality. The result? Bitter and herbaceous—and somehow calming. Like a Negroni that spent a month hiking Sardinian hills, picking up wisdom and a bit of mischief along the way.

That one drink said more about the island than anything else on offer.

Sardinia is still the star

To be fair, Villaggio Baia dei Pini isn’t pretending to be a boutique hideaway. It’s a no-fuss, family-friendly resort in a stunning part of Sardinia. The sea is crystal-clear, the pine-scented air smells like holidays should, and everything runs on a schedule—which, for some, is exactly the point.

Yes, it can get crowded. Yes, the rooms are more “functional” than fabulous. But the staff are genuinely lovely, and if you want to turn your brain off for a week and let the sun do the heavy lifting, it delivers. It’s not trying to change your life—just give you a break from it. If you’re a 20-something what are you even doing here. If you are white-collar worker who’s done with decisions after a year of back-to-back meetings, this place is your pause button.

That one drink made the trip

And then there’s that Negroni. Gin, red vermouth, and Amaro Bomba Carta. A drink that somehow captured the spirit of Sardinia better than any of the themed dinners. It was bold, a little mysterious, and totally grounded in its place.

Honestly, if the resort leaned more into that kind of experience—local, simple, thoughtful—it would be unforgettable.

➕ Pros

  • Great location, unforgettable sea. The setting is pure Sardinia—turquoise waters, white sand, and pine-scented air that instantly tells your brain: you’re on holiday now.
  • Kind, hardworking staff who keep it all running. Warm, patient, always helpful. Truly the heart of the place.
  • Low-effort, high-relaxation rhythm. Perfect for families or the totally burned-out. Just show up, unplug, and let the days blur gently.
  • That Negroni. Gin, red vermouth, and Amaro Bomba Carta. Sardinian soul in a glass, easily the most memorable part of the stay.

➖ Cons

  • Facilities can feel overstretched in high season. Queues build up fast, and shared spaces like the bar and restaurant can feel more chaotic than communal.
  • Food is fine, but forgettable. Mostly large-scale Italian dining with a nostalgic 1980s/1990s vibe. Comforting, but rarely exciting.
  • Entertainment is dated and awkward. Delivered by a young, enthusiastic team working with tired material. Think fake ethnic costumes, mock-foreign gibberish for laughs (yes, in 2025), and sketches that feel like they were lifted straight from your old high school show.
  • Crowds can bring more noise than ease. You’ve agreed to the rules so don’t complain about them—even the silly ones. And maybe don’t start a public standoff over the last sebada, okay?

Would I go back? Maybe.
Would I go back just for that Negroni, at sunset, feet in the sand, and not a single thought about my inbox?
In a heartbeat.

More about Villaggio Baia dei Pini

4-star holiday Valtur resort – Website

Address: Località Pedra e Cupa, 08020 Budoni NU, Italy
Phone: +39 0784 844630

photograph of cocktails with straws

The Art of the Aperitivo: Drinks and Culture in Italy

Picture this: the sun dips low over a cobblestone piazza, its golden light spilling onto café tables. Laughter ripples through the air, glasses clink in celebration, and a plate of olives and cured meats arrives at the table. This is not just a scene from an Italian postcard—it’s the ritual of the aperitivo, a cherished tradition that turns the simple act of a drink into an art form. But what is it about this moment that feels so quintessentially Italian? Let’s explore.

The aperitivo: more than happy hour

To the uninitiated, aperitivo might seem like Italy’s version of happy hour. But let’s get one thing straight: this isn’t about chasing discounted cocktails after a long day. Aperitivo is about something deeper—a pause, a connection, and a celebration of life’s small pleasures.

The term “aperitivo” comes from the Latin word aperire, meaning “to open.” In culinary terms, it’s a prelude to dinner, designed to awaken the appetite with a bitter drink and a bite of something savoury. Its origins trace back to the late 18th century, when Antonio Benedetto Carpano created vermouth in Turin. By the 20th century, the aperitivo had blossomed into a beloved Italian ritual. It’s not just about food or drink; it’s about embracing the dolce vita—the sweet life.

Tradition meets modernity

The magic of aperitivo lies in its ability to honour tradition while staying effortlessly modern. Think of a classic Aperol Spritz, vibrant and iconic, alongside a cutting-edge twist like a saffron-infused Negroni. In Italy, the past and present dance beautifully together, and nowhere is this clearer than in the aperitivo culture.

In Milan, sleek cocktail bars hum with a cosmopolitan energy, while in Rome, you’ll find bustling trattorias where spritzes are served with humble bowls of salted peanuts. This juxtaposition—old and new, simple and sophisticated—is what keeps the tradition alive.

Drinks that speak Italian

So, what’s on the menu when you sit down for an aperitivo? Let’s start with the classics. The Spritz is a favorite: when you make it with Aperol, its orange hue glows like a Venetian sunset, and its crisp, slightly bitter taste is the essence of refreshment It doesn’t have to be with Aperol though! Campari and Cynar Spritz are two rather trendy alternatives.

For those who prefer something bolder, the Negroni delivers a punchy blend of gin, Campari, and sweet vermouth—equal parts elegance and edge.

And then there’s the Americano, a lighter mix of Campari, sweet vermouth, and soda water, often enjoyed as a precursor to the more potent Negroni. But it’s not all about the big names. Regional specialties like Venice’s Bellini (prosecco and peach purée) or the Sicilian Zibibbo wine offer a glimpse into Italy’s diverse drinking culture.

What ties these drinks together? A love for bitter flavours. Amari (Italian herbal liqueurs) like Cynar, Campari, and Fernet Branca are staples of the aperitivo hour, their complex, herbal profiles designed to wake up your palate. Even the non-drinkers aren’t left out—Italy’s alcohol-free offerings, like the fizzy Chinotto or the bright orange Crodino, are just as satisfying.

Snacks that steal the show

It wouldn’t be aperitivo without the stuzzichini, the little bites that keep your drink company. The beauty of aperitivo snacks is their variety—they range from simple to decadent, but they’re always designed for sharing.

At its simplest, you might find a bowl of green olives, crunchy breadsticks, or a handful of salted peanuts or almond. But wander through an aperitivo buffet in Bologna, and you’ll be met with platters of mortadella, wedges of Parmigiano-Reggiano, and bite-sized arancini (fried rice balls). In Liguria, it’s all about focaccia—crispy, golden, and impossibly fragrant with olive oil.

These snacks are more than just accompaniments; they’re a part of the experience. Italians have mastered the art of pairing flavours and textures—salty, crispy, tangy—with the bitterness of their drinks. It’s a symphony of tastes that feels both effortless and intentional.

If you’re wondering whether bars lose money with the snacks, here’s something to know about Italian drinking culture: Italians aren’t big drinkers like their Northern European counterparts. The stuzzichini are there to make you a bit thirstier and encourage you to order a second drink. They’re what business strategists call loss leaders—products offered below cost (in this case, free!) to drive sales of more profitable items, like cocktails.

This often leads to interesting conversations when we host our Italian friends and relatives here in the UK (where I live). No, English pubs won’t serve you free crisps and peanuts—because the last thing they need to convince their patrons to do is order yet another drink!

Aperitivo as a philosophy

Beyond the drinks and snacks, the aperitivo is about embracing a slower pace of life. It’s that magical hour when work fades away, and the focus shifts to the people around you. In a world that’s often obsessed with productivity, aperitivo is a gentle reminder to pause and savour the moment.

Contrast this with the rushed, on-the-go culture that dominates much of the Western world. How often do we grab a drink without truly tasting it, or scroll through our phones instead of enjoying the company we’re in? The aperitivo offers an antidote: it’s a lesson in intentional living, where every sip and every bite is an opportunity to connect—with yourself, with others, and with the present.

How to aperitivo like an Italian

So, you’re ready to try aperitivo for yourself. Where should you start? In Italy, the magic typically happens between 6 p.m. and 8 p.m., when the day softens into evening. Look for a lively bar with outdoor seating—after all, aperitivo is as much about people-watching as it is about drinking.

If you’re hosting an aperitivo at home, keep it simple but thoughtful. Choose a mix of drinks—perhaps a bottle of prosecco, a batch of Negronis, and a non-alcoholic option. Pair them with an array of snacks: marinated olives, sliced prosciutto, and crusty bread are always a hit.

And here’s an insider tip: don’t rush. Aperitivo isn’t about quick fixes or instant gratification. Let the conversation flow, savour the flavours, and watch the evening unfold naturally.

The aperitivo goes global

While the aperitivo is deeply Italian, its influence has spread across the world. From chic aperitivo bars in London or New York City to trendy pop-ups in Tokyo, the tradition is being embraced and reimagined far beyond Italy’s borders.

Modern mixologists are giving classic aperitivo drinks a fresh spin, using local ingredients or experimenting with unexpected flavours. But no matter how it’s adapted, the heart of the aperitivo remains the same: it’s about bringing people together and celebrating the art of living well.

A state of mind

At its core, the aperitivo is more than a drink or a snack—it’s a state of mind. It’s an invitation to slow down, to savour, to connect. It’s a reminder that life’s greatest pleasures are often the simplest ones: a shared laugh, a perfectly balanced cocktail, a warm evening under the stars.

So, what are you waiting for? Grab a glass, gather your friends, and toast to the aperitivo—a tradition that’s as timeless as it is irresistible. Salute!

Everything I drank in Italy, October 2017

So far I’ve used this site mainly to display the drink I’m having in a given moment. Time to step up and do some proper write ups, especially since I’m privileged enough to travel and therefore try local, obscure things fairly often.

The trip

Last October I went to Italy for the annual Human Made company retreat. This year it was in Petritoli, in the Marche region—central Italy, on the East coast, although the village itself was on the Apennines.

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